Weeping Rock as seen from the switchbacks of Hidden Canyon Trail. Strong winds blow the waterfall into the Navajo sandstone.

On an overcast day in March, I spent a day in Zion National Park hiking along the Hidden Canyon Trail. The trail is best explained in three sections. The first section, starting at the Weeping Rock trailhead, consists of eleven switchbacks which quickly climb about 800 feet of elevation. A lot of care went into building this section of the trail, with sandstone retaining walls and a patchwork of old pavement. Both are most likely relics from when the trail was built in 1928. After the steep but steady climb, the trail levels out yet becomes more difficult.

In this section, the most famous section, the trail has been literally carved into the side of the sandstone walls of Zion. If you slip on this section, an old chain that looks as old as the park is all that keeps you from falling off the cliff. I could see the parking lot almost directly below, the parked cars just small squares of color from this height. This section of the trail reminded me of Angel’s Landing, another famous vertigo-inducing hike of this park, but not as challenging. Where Angel’s Landing has long stretches of thin ledges climbing a fin of rock with 1,000-foot drops off of both sides, this section of Hidden Valley Trail is just 200-300 feet long, about 2-3 feet wide, and just a 800 foot drop on one side. So not that bad, in comparison.

The third section of the trail is Hidden Canyon itself, referred to by some climbers as the “Great White Crack.” The official trail, in fact, ends near the entrance of the hanging canyon.  A sign is posted warning visitors of the dangers that are ahead, suggesting that only fit hikers continue on.  In no time at all, you’ll be scrambling on slickrock, over boulders, and through a seasonal stream. It is stunningly beautiful. Every hiker I talked to was happy to be there.  One gentleman from Wisconsin couldn’t have been happier. “This is the kind of hike I have dreamed of doing in Utah,” he said. “This is just perfect!” With the right footwear and some hiking experience, there’s a lot to explore in this canyon.  However, the main feature is also the destination for many who are drawn to the trail. A half mile into the canyon is a small 25-foot tall natural arch.  With a unique striped grain that matches the wall behind it, and a mix of greens, browns, and yellow blotches of lichens make this worth the challenging hike.

Another view of Weeping Rock and the waterfall gushing out of Echo Canyon high above. Note the switchbacks of Hidden Canyon Trail can be seen in the lower right of this photo.

On my hike, there were some patches of snow.

The chain section of Hidden Canyon Trail. From up here, cars at the Weeping Rock trailhead look like small dots of color.

Eons of winds and rain have created interesting textures to the sandstone. The trail traverses the top of this slab.

Don't slip!

A lot of care went into the creation of this trail back in 1928. They don't make trails like this anymore.

Once in Hidden Canyon, the trail is less defined and follows the canyon floor.

It is said that the canyon was discovered by a climber in 1927. While attempting to climb the Great White Throne, he fell. The ensuing search discovered not only the injured climber but this canyon.

My favorite section of the canyon. I love the juxtaposition of the bright green moss-covered wall on one side of the canyon and the naked Navajo sandstone on the other.

Another view of this stunning section of the canyon.

This is the destination for most visitors to the canyon: a small natural arch.

On the way out of the canyon, I met Laura and Josh. These two Buckeyes seem to love this park just as much as I do. The next two photos were taken near the tree in the top center of this shot.

A long way down! Note the vehicles in the Weeping Rock trailhead far below.

Just chillin' on the rocks, checking out the view.

One last look at the impressive waterfall. Notice the group of people below Weeping Rock (right).

Happy New Year’s Eve, everyone! Today is a day we spend time reminiscing about the year behind us and look forward to the year ahead of us. I’ve got a lot to reminisce about. You might recall that this site was launched with three ambitious personal goals I hoped to achieve by the end of 2010. Let’s see how well I did on completing them.

Goal #1 – Become a member of a Search & Rescue team.
Status: FAIL

I threw in the towel on this goal fairly early in the year. I was excited to be accepted to the San Dimas Search & Rescue Team and start down the 2-3 year road towards becoming a member, but the time needed to dedicate to wilderness classes and homework would not fit into my schedule. Plus, I wanted my weekends to explore! So I replaced this goal with this:

Goal #1 (Plan B) – Become a Volunteer with a local organization that promotes the outdoors.
Status: Double Win!

In 2010, I became a volunteer with two great organizations:
1. Tree People – Founded in 1973 here in Los Angeles, this non-profit organization’s main goals is to add more trees to the geography of Los Angeles – and idea I can get behind. After the devastation in the Angeles National Forest caused by the Station Fire of 2009, I heard that Tree People would be the group that would eventually replant saplings in the burned areas. I became a reforestation supervisor in February and have helped plant trees in the Arrowhead Lake area during the Spring. Next year, Tree People begin the major task of replanting the Angeles National Forest. If you are interested in spending an afternoon replanting trees you can show your grandchildren, Tree People has got a lot of opportunities for you. Check out their site for details. They have tentatively scheduled to reforest every weekend in March and April.

Planting Trees in Fawskin, CA

2. Santa Monica Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority (MRCA)- The MRCA works with an assortment of other organizations (including the National Park Service) to secure and develop park land throughout the Los Angeles area. The MRCA preserves and protects many public lands scattered throughout the area, including Franklin Canyon Park in Beverly Hills. It was here that I became a volunteer naturalist in April. As a naturalists, I can conduct guided programs for school groups and the general public, assist at MRCA special events, operate park nature centers and information booths, and/or rove trails. I’ve roved a few trails in the Verdugo Hills, offering assistance to hikers, and I taught a program on astronomy at Vista Hermosa Natural Park in downtown LA. I’m looking forward to dedicating more time to guided programs in 2011.

Trail roving in the Verdugo Mountains

Goal #2 – Hike 500 miles in 2010.
Status: WIN! Total mileage: 513

In 2009, I completed the life-changing goal of hiking 100 times in 240 days and I recall thinking that nothing could top such a physical task. Nothing could push me further. I was wrong. My hiking goal for 2010 took me to what I thought was my limit and pushed me beyond it. This year I hiked 91 times in California, Utah, and Oregon.  The final 100 miles were done on an 18-day trip to New Zealand, where I backpacked 20 miles in a single day, something that I never thought I could do.  I was able to witness some of the most majestic natural wonders I’ve ever seen. (I’ll post a slide show shortly.) Best of all, I was able to finish this seemingly unreachable goal on my birthday, December 6th, in New Zealand. Happy Birthday, indeed!

Each photo represents a mile that I hiked in 2010.

[Zoom-able version]

Goal #3 – To hike with 150 people
Status: FAIL

I wasn’t able to get 150 people on the trails, but I was able to hike with many fantastic people that have been an inspiration to me and others. I was able to convince a few who had never hiked to get outdoors and tramp, something that can be quite intimidating for a city dweller. I was also introduced to many hikers whom I now call friends; those who I met on the trail or through my hiking group on Facebook, The Hike Guy’s Hiking Club. I currently have over 200 members in my little club and hopefully they’ll all eventually join me on the trail. So, for this goal, I got less than half way there: I end 2010 with a total of 66 people whom I’ve hiked with since January.

A BIG THANK YOU to the 2010 Hiking Club: Peter, Shawnte, The Mystery Hiker, Casey, Ric, Eliza, Leighton, Lori, Justin, Chris, Jackie, Amie, David, Jassica, Sarah, Chris, Shannon, Jean, Mike, Remi, Alyse, Jamie, Michael, Gregory, Melanie, Lauren, Brandan, Elizabeth, Jen, Sandra, Bob, Michael, Vanessa, Justine, Molly, Karima, Mona, Tim, Justine, McKenna, Sharon, C.J., Dan, Noel, Cassandra, Daniel, Laura, Carlos, Julie, Claudia, Zachary, Joe, Alan, Rashid, Natalie, Ann, Angela, Michael, Emily, Alexandra, David, Robert, Dan, Peter, and Wendy.

So what resolutions do I have for 2011? I’ve been thinking about this for a while and will post something about it soon.

A view from the top of Angels Landing

I first attempted Angels Landing in September of 2009. I hiked within 100 yards of the highest point and sat down, concentrating on anything but the view of the canyon floor, where buses looked like tiny white Tic-Tacs and people looked like fleas. I told my hiking partners that I was quite happy not going any farther. Fate had been tempted too much that day as it was.

When I safely got off the trail and my acrophobia subsided, I began to regret my decision not to make it to the top. So when friends and I returned to Zion National Park earlier this year, I made it a mission to get up there – all the way to the top. Climbing Angels Landing for the second time is a lot less stressful. Here’s a few videos I made of the successful climb to the top. (Click through to see the videos in HD.)

The sunlight reacts with Buckskin Gulch like nowhere else on the planet. I bounces around, bringing out amazing colors in the sandstone.

1. Get a permit
A permit is required for any length of time in the slot canyon, which is found in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Although a great extent of the canyon can be done as a day hike, you’ll have more time to enjoy yourself if you do it as a backpacking trip. Day hiking permits can be purchased at the Wire Pass and White House Trailheads using the self-pay boxes (no limits), but overnight journeys through the area require one of the highly sought after permits issued per day (the Bureau of Land Management limits permits to just 20 per day). The safest and most popular time to hike Buckskin is during the dry season (April-June) when flash flooding is historically low. It isn’t surprising to see weekends during this time “selling out” up to six months in advance! So how can you get an overnight permit? Check out Arizona’s BLM site to reserve your permit.

Here's what the calendar looked like on May 10th, 2010. A few days earlier, I snatched up the last two permits available in the month of May!

2. Talk to the rangers at Paria/Kanab.
The BLM rangers at both Paria and Kanab are your friends. They know more about the canyon than most humans. Seek their knowledge prior to setting out on the hike! They can tell you about current conditions of the trail and warn you of any storms that might cause flash flooding. I’m sure they have many search and rescue stories. Don’t become a statistic! Although the canyon has been rated 2B V using the Canyon Rating System, it does involve scrambling, and trekking through pools of mud and quicksand. There is a rock jam that might require a rappel and lowering of your backpack by rope or webbing. The rangers will let you know the latest conditions so stop in to either the Kanab or Paria BLM offices and have a chat with them. You’ll be better for it.

Kanab Field Office – 318 North 100 East, Kanab, UT 84741 – Phone: (435) 644-4600 Fax: (435) 644-4620 utknmail@blm.gov

Here's the rock jam in Wire Pass (Sept 2009). The scramble isn't difficult if you're in fairly good health. Most of the time at the rock jams is spent getting gear down. I brought a carabiner and 30 feet of webbing. Although we didn't need to use it at this rock jam, it came in handy at the much larger and more famous rock jam in Buckskin Gulch, where there's a 10-15 foot drop.

3. Use a shuttle or two cars.
The most popular route through Buckskin Gulch starts at the Wire Pass Trailhead and ends at the White House Trailhead/Campsite, a 21-mile eastward journey. Elevation gain/loss is unnoticeable. Some have started at the White House TH and hiked up the canyon, but this would require you to go up the rock jam, which might require climbing gear to get up the 10-15 feet of rocks. Either way you do it, you’ll need to either leave a car at your destination or hire a shuttle service. I used Steve Dodson’s Paria Outfitters. He’s been living in the area since 1995 and knows the area better than most. Plus, he’s quite a character so don’t expect a boring drive! He’s full of jokes and is knowledgeable on the flora and fauna that you might pass on the 18-mile drive. After you have acquired your permit, give them a call to set up a shuttle pick-up. You’ll meet them at the your destination trailhead and drive you and your gear to the other trailhead to begin your hike. Prices are listed at the bottom of this page of their website.

If you do use two vehicles, check with the ranger station on the condition of House Rock Valley Road.  You will need to travel about 8 miles down this unpaved, graded road to get to the Wire Pass Trailhead.

4. Check the forecast for a week leading up to your hike.
Backpacker Magazine (Oct, 2008) calls Buckskin Gulch one of America’s Ten Most Dangerous Hikes. Using a scale between 1 (friendly) and 10 (deadly), they rank both weather and terrain in the canyon each at a 7. The “x-factor” – the unforeseen unique challenges the hike might offer – is ranked at 6. Of all the challenges the canyon offers – including scrambling, mud, and quicksand – flash flooding is the biggest danger. The magazine puts it best: “Should thunderstorm-bloated flood waters come charging down the tunnel, you’re no better than a bug in a firehose.“  Remember, rain falling as far away as Bryce Canyon can end up gushing through Buckskin!

Another aspect of the weather you need to prepare for while packing is air temperature, both hot and cold. Some areas of the canyon have rarely seen sunlight. One area – appropriately nicknamed “The Cesspools” – is dark, wet, and cold, even on a hot summer day. My friends zipped off the bottom of their pants for this section and although it helped keep their pants clean from sticky mud, they got cold. On the other side of the coin, the last few miles up to White House Trailhead were hot and nearly shadeless. During this 21-mile hike, we experienced daytime temperatures as low as 50°F and as high as 90°F!

Here are a few resources for keeping your eye on the weather.

• Weather at the Paria BLM Field Office
• Paria River stream flow data (real time)
• Salt Lake Tribune Weather
• Kanab, Utah weather (wunderground.com)

Slogging through one of the many "pudding pools" in Buckskin Gulch. (May 2010)

Before hiking through The Cesspools, my pants were forest green! (May 2010)

5. Wear water shoes
I’m a huge advocate for boots. They offer ankle support and protection. In 2008, the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) released a report stating that, “Almost 213,000 people were treated each year in emergency departments for outdoor recreational injuries from 2004 to 2005.” And of those injuries, 23.9% were sprains. I wear my boots even on short day hikes because I know that it just takes one missed step and I’m in big trouble.

However, with that said, I think that if you have strong ankles and/or wear ankle braces, water shoes is the best footwear for Buckskin Gulch. At least ten of the 21-miles of hiking are done in or near water. I’d guess that we crossed the ankle-deep Paria River over 40 times, and with water shoes, I enjoyed simply walking up the river rather than trying to navigate along side it.

But every trip down the canyon will be a different experience. It could be that the only water you come across will be in The Cesspools. I’ve seen photos of a completely-dry Paria River bed! If that’s the case and there’s report of little or no water, it wouldn’t hurt to strap a pair of water shoes (or sturdy sandals) to your bag for when you need to navigate The Cesspools. I wore Men’s Merrell Waterpro Tawas with a pair of SealSkinz Water Blocker Waterproof socks on the entire hike.

We went with Merrell WaterPro Tawas Water Shoes. I'm also wearing black SealSkinz neoprene socks and ankle braces (to be safe).

6. Bring plenty of water

Every drop of water you drink in the canyon should be carried in.  You don’t want to drink the water trod upon for two reasons: the stream has passed around any and all dead animals, cow pastures,  and scat (including human) as far north as Bryce Canyon.  Do you really want to drink water that has passed through an area called “The Cesspools”?  Also, it’s worth mentioning now that in the instruction pamphlet distributed by the BLM, it is OK to piss in the river (but they do want you to carry out your poo in specialized baggies.)  Sure, they say that a lot of the water you see in Buckskin has seeped through the Navajo sandstone, but I don’t care how many iodine tablets or what filtration system I use, I’ll pass!

There is one exception:  About a mile south of the confluence with the Paria River is the Wall Spring.  You can safely refill water from here, but using tablets is always a wise choice.
7. Learn how to read a map and compass

Don’t rely on your GPS to tell you where you are in Buckskin Gulch.  I brought mine as a curiosity and, although it did do a good job tracking our progress at the beginning and end, it wasn’t able to get a clear enough view of the sky in the narrower spots of the canyon (here’s what my GPS did record). I recommend printing out topographical maps of the canyon and bringing them with you.  There are online resources that offer free topo maps, but personally, I use TOPO! National Geographic USGS Topographic Maps of Utah. Since there is a chance you might be trekking through pools of water, make sure to also bring a water-proof map holder. You can purchase one from an outdoor gear retailer for $15-20,  or you can make a poor-man’s version: one large Ziploc freezer bag.

I carried my Garmin 60CSx on the hike just to see how well it would do. Not so bad during the beginning and end of the trek, but in the thin slots it didn't work at all.

Here is a section of Buckskin Gulch near Steamboat Rock (lower middle). The red line is the track my GPS device captured on the hike. I hoped to use GPS to locate the Middle Trail Route, but alas, the easily-missed exit from the canyon went undiscovered by us.

More resources:
Books:
You only need this one, the bible of hiking in the Paria River area:

• Hiking and Exploring the Paria River by Michael R. Kelsey (5th Edition – May 2010). If you cannot find it online before your trip, you’ll most likely find a copy in the Willow Canyon Outdoor Company in Kanab.

Websites:

• Buckskin Gulch & Paria Canyon – Canyoneering
• Buckskin Gulch – Buckskin Slot Canyon
• Slot Canyons of the American Southwest – Buckskin Gulch, Utah/Arizona
• How to hike Buckskin Gulch and escape a flash flood
• Utah Wild: Paria Canyon

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave me a comment below.

The music is Get A Move On by DJ Mr. Scruff (which, in turn, is built around Bird’s Lament (In Memory of Charlie Parker) by Moondog).

Along with the two-days supplies I brought on my back, I also packed a tripod and my Canon EOS 40D digital SLR camera.  I plan on posting more details about this hike and how to hike it, but first, a few photos:

The sunlight bounced around the canyon bringing out amazing colors in the sandstone.

Group shot, taken after about 6 miles of hiking. (i.e. before The Cesspools!)

Alyse & Remi entering The Cesspools, an area of the canyon that stays dark and wet year round.

Although labeled as "The Cesspools" on most guidebooks, this area was recently nicknamed "The Pudding Pools." It really felt like you were sloshing through pudding!

Almost out of one of 7-8 pools of mud.

We tried to stay out of the mud as much as possible. Luckily for us, some areas that would have been muddy a week ago had dried and hardened.

When I started this hike, my pants were forest green.

One of the openings in the canyon. The temperature change in the canyon was incredible, sometimes dropping ten degrees in just a few steps.

Notice the dry muddy waterline on the wall behind Alyse & Remi, a sign that flash floods do happen. In fact, flash flooding is what makes Buckskin Gulch one of the ten most dangerous hikes in the US, according to Backpack Magazine. Flash floods can bring a wall of water over 100 feet tall through the canyon.

Nearing the Paria River, the eastern end of the slot canyon.

Our campsite near the confluence with the Paria River. The walls of the canyon stood over 300 feet in this area. The two walls of the canyon meet about 150 yards behind my tent, where the dark stone meets the lighter stone.

A rainy trek in the Parque Nacional Huerquehue, Chile.

August brought devastation to the mountains I called home.  An arsonist lit a fire in the Angeles National Forest.  Before the fire was finally extinguished almost two months later, it would consume 160,577 acres of land and kill two firefighters. The Station Fire, as it was called since it started near the Angeles Crest Ranger Station, was the 10th largest fire in California’s recorded history.

In September, I got my mind off the fire by taking a road trip through the Southwest. The 2,200-mile adventure brought me through some of the greatest natural wonders in the US. During the nine-day trip, I hiked over 50 miles in Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Arches National Park, Zion National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Whew! Quite a few of my favorite photos were taken on this trip.

In October, my friend Chris and I took a 3-day camping trip to the Eastern Sierras. This was only my second time to the Eastern Sierras, the first being earlier in the year. Chris and I spent a great deal of our waking hours exploring the June Lakes region by foot, mountain bike, and car.

In late November and early December, I traveled to Chile and Bolivia for a backpacking trip. I saw things down there that I have trouble putting into words. The land is uniquely beautiful.

According to my photo editing software, I took a whopping 20,628 photos in 2009.  I’d love to share every one of them with you, but instead I’ve selected fifty of my favorites.  These images represent the best (and worst) moments of my year.

So if you have been thinking of visiting Zion, why not do it this year?  Put it on the calendar! If you’re wanting to get back into hiking or haven’t hiked before, they have easy trails just for you. You can take paved paths to the most gorgeous of views, like the Lower Emerald Pools. If you consider yourself a hiker, Zion has what you seek. Beautiful slot canyons and acrophobia-inducing ridges. Plan well in advance of your visit. Lottery applications for hiking the park’s more-famous areas like Mystery Canyon or The Subway (pictured below) are due three months prior to travel. Until then, check out National Geographic’s Park of the Week for popping photos that will have you wishing you were in Utah.